By the sounds of the news article he was in the water when it happened.
Was he heading out just getting his board on in shallow water?
Was he trying to tack out up wind and riding when it happened?
Was he returning to the beach to land?
I assume it was the south west mole he hit, but it could have been the center one if he was tacking.
Also keep in mind the old Nexen launch was quite a was away from the new launch. And they have added over 100m of reclaimed land upwind of where we used to launch:

- OldNexenLaunch.jpg (115.74 KiB) Viewed 20934 times
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q0-OFE ... sp=sharing