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Nose repair

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by shmish » Fri Oct 30, 2020 10:01 pm

Well I think I really did a bit more damage today. Cracked the skin on my nose but I think the foam is also damaged. I’ve been too scared to look. Maybe a cm or two could be broken/cracked. Generally speaking what is the strategy when repairing foam? Make a clean straight cut, glue on new foam, glass over top?

Michael, did you take your board to Rob M?

I’m seriously considering a surfbent at this point. I’ve never damaged a nose before this year, I guess it’s the combo of board size/shape and learning foiling. I’ve been worried that when a mast slams down on it, the large lever places a large force on the deck under the surfbent. So instead of cracking the nose, the deck is getting damaged. That’s just a guess, I haven’t heard anyone say this has happened.
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by LeopardSkin » Fri Oct 30, 2020 10:19 pm

I've noticed the Locarno and UBC windsurfing clubs glue foam pillows on all their boards to prevent mast to nose crackage.
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by adam2 » Fri Oct 30, 2020 11:13 pm

I like this idea, though it requires digging up an old mast base pad.

https://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Win ... or-?page=2
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by imdmitry » Fri Oct 30, 2020 11:23 pm

Check the boardlady, lots of info for how to fix.
https://boardlady.com/repairmenu.htm
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by grantmac » Sat Oct 31, 2020 9:11 am

I sand back the paint to get an idea of the extent of the cracks. After that I put the board somewhere warm with the cracks facing downward and see if any water comes out.

Then I inject clear gorilla glue through the cracks. This uses moisture to expand and cure. I give that a solid 2-4 days to fully cure then do a layer of thickened epoxy. Sand that down to smooth then finish with two layers of 4oz S cloth.

I damn near snapped the nose off a waveboard and glued it all together with gorilla then glassed over and its solid as hell.
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by ZeroR2 » Sat Oct 31, 2020 2:24 pm

I think one way to alleviate the pressure on the deck from the surfbent is to use the new Chinook Pro Flex Base. It is a mechanical hinge with tendon.

https://chinooksailing.com/collections/ ... uro-pin-ex

Surfbent, nose guard and boom guard is all you can do. Or learn really fast and don't crash.
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by Michael » Sat Oct 31, 2020 3:18 pm

shmish wrote:Michael, did you take your board to Rob M?

Sorry for the late reply Doug, I've been super busy.

Rob did repair it the first time but I'm not sure he's doing any repairs these days. You could give him a call.
I did a temporary ding stick fix.
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by shmish » Sat Oct 31, 2020 4:44 pm

Thanks for the replies. It's not as bad as I feared. Two main dings. #1 is crevasse shaped, the other is a bigger divot. I can sand back the surrounding glass more.

Grantmac, I think these dings are small enough for gorilla glue. I can let it foam out and then sand down to blend. What do you think? I could also just make a mix of epoxy and sawdust or glass fibers, this might be better for ding #2 which is more open.

This repair is on top of a previous repair. I was never really happy with my original repair, I really rushed it.
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by grantmac » Sat Oct 31, 2020 5:18 pm

Inject it full needle deep and let it foam out. That'll help bolster any crushed core foam.
I'm not a fan of thickened epoxy unless its covered with actual glass cloth overlapping onto a solid area.
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by shmish » Sat Oct 31, 2020 6:24 pm

grantmac wrote:Inject it full needle deep and let it foam out. That'll help bolster any crushed core foam.
I'm not a fan of thickened epoxy unless its covered with actual glass cloth overlapping onto a solid area.


Thanks. If I went the thickened epoxy route I would glass over it as well. Since the glass is providing the strength, as long as the glue foams all around (I guess there’s no reason it shouldn’t) I might as well just use gorilla glue.
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