by bandito » Thu Jan 12, 2017 9:55 am
In my past experience, a small surfboard is normally really hard for beginner and even intermediate to catch a wave , stay on the board standing without falling , and ride the wave. I would vote for over 7' for normal weight (155 to 180lb). I was a slow learner and wasted way too much waves wt a 6'8"
but its much easier to duck dive a small board under n incoming breaking set then a bigger board. I used to bail my 7'2" if overhead + and breaking, Man did my right legs get pull drag as im underwater holding on sea bottom.
I thought Gun boards were normally use on like double to quadruple overhead at my what use to be my favorite point brake spot Barra Nexpa in Mexico, They where not really design for doing round house in waves and such but to drop fast wt acceleration in waves as they are shape longueur and narrower .
Its seems thought that Gab is the great person to give advice and follow in surf on this site, I would follow is lead and advice above the rest. and he offer to tell you where and when.... most good greedy surfer wouldn't do that. a light person under 140lb can probably learn on a much smaller board then a tall 160lb one like me.
I wouldn't recommend soft board as they waste power of wave and don't respond to your input as well as a hard one . epoxy is much more durable then resin in general but little less absorbing of shocks,or use to be. I believe the board stringer is a big deal, I use to have a board from Puertorico indestructible wt a thick stringer, nice. I bought a new one and it broken in half 2 times, stringer was crap wood too thin, piss me off .
I basically quite surfing in 2003 when a surfer let me try is kite on the beach, I was Hook on the Power! plus I hated they were like 40 people waiting for a set of 7 waves and getting snake at, not able to catch anything unless I would dare to drop on someone,wich I didn't. too many surfers for a point brake, no wonder so call locals slash tires , snake you on the water, get feisty.....
Surfing is the real stuff and harder sport I learned, way more rewarding to wait for a set of waves as sun start go down and riding the Power of the Sea only, not using winds and sail to cheat out . I may get a 9' sup and pissoff the short n long boarder at South Shesterman one of these days lol n don't forget to Yellow out you wet suit when its get cold ! mmm, that feel good...