Faceplant, I have limited experience in that kind of surf. But one thing I know is that you never take your sweet time with that size. You have to be at the right spot and be able to move in front of the crashing wave and to do so you need speed.
There was something wrong to what he did, he bottomed out by choice and slowed even more instead of being ahead of the wave, at that point in the video I knew it was going to end up terribly, closing out on the guy on shallow water. By the time he is inside the barrel, he is 10 ft behind with no speed trying to keep up and he did not bail out! (2nd mistake, he probably wanted to save face) and he was caught by the wall sucking him UP and then full force down to shallow water ...
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