SI-1 - Sombrio (2019 Feb 21) Mirage. As I drove down the last hill I let out a WhooHoo! at the sight of a dream-like peeling right at Queesto. According to one local it seems sediment has been stacking up in the lee of the old pier piles to create a low-tide bar break. Well whatever was causing it, it looked unreal.
Quick stop at JR (closing out) to see the SE wind start to push (enough that I would have rigged 5.3/116 if I had it with me) and by the time I got back to Q-spot the wind and tide had both conspired to take the beauties away. Off to Sombrio it was (to seek shelter from the wind) and get my first session in there.
Semi-sketch snow-covered access road down (one car parked up at the highway – guess they didn’t want to risk it). Nice to see François when I arrived (but he was coming off the water after a week on the south isle). François said he had been out at chickens and it was small. I walked in for a look-see.
Firsts looked fun (except for the field of boiling boulders on the inside) and no one was riding it was a little unnerving.
Chickens looked like it had something to offer (and looked open and low-risk).
Seconds looked heavy and fast and was the focus of attention for a large pack of rather skilled surfers (surfing the way I want to when I grow up).
Hmmmm – given the cool temps, wind and feeling exhausted from a long week, I just about didn’t go out, but I did. Chickens was fun (even if the roll and wind made positioning a challenge)! Beware of the shore break on the way in and out. Glad I went out!
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Slideshow SI-2 – Jordan River (2019 Feb 21)Cool-down/warm-up. Stopped in a JR on the way home and it looked like a rolly-polly stew of confusion and I just about drove away. After a few minutes the wind backed and it hinted it was glassing off so I suited up for a cool-down session. Glad I did as first few strikes were all successful, wave count went up and it was fun, until the ebbing tide rounded off the swell to just a little too fat and hard to catch. Started at rock pile (caught one open right with size and energy that served up what felt like a dozen hits), then pointe left, then pointe right (first time on SUP – small, but I’ll take it). Was working so hard at not catching waves toward the end I had to jump in to cool down from overheating. Overall it was fun and felt warm in the sun. Glad I went out!
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Slideshow SI-3 – Jordan River (2019 Feb 21)Playful. Got my ‘chores’ done early so headed west for one last try before leaving the island. Looked small, but glassy with hints of fun. Paddled out against the set of the day (overhead peelers). Glassy with slight offshore wind at times. Low-tide and small swell made for some rides in shallow water. One guy out on SUP foil catching rides on even the roundest of swell. Started at rock pile, then pointe left, then pointe right, rock pile again, then Queesto. I could see a small pack of skilled surfers slashing the wedge off the Queesto pier piles, so paddle down to get a water-side look-see. Power pocket wave that look like seconds, but I waited for a medium sized one with more width and caught a nice sample ride. As I was paddling back from Queesto I thought of a Gerry Lopez quote, “When in doubt, paddle out.” – wisdom. Exited on pointe left. Glad I went out!
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