Hey Slappy
Are you serious about that story? That actually happened to me at JR too. Maybe it was me your talking about...who is this friend you speak of? Seriously though it happened to me about 7 years ago. An older gal about 60 came out to inform me it was a surfers only wave. She actually put on a suit and paddled out to let me know. This was on a crap day too and there was no one else out there...just me. I refused to leave as I wasn't in anyone's way, wasn't going to run anyone over etc etc. She told me I should respect my elders then she paddled back in. I guess she was a retired logger with spare time on her hands .
Anyways, aside from that I haven't had any issues there but I don't SUP on the right hander. Too busy for my tastes anyways. I stay north of the river mouth or ride the left off the point. If I go to JR and it's tiny then I hit Sombrio and it's always bigger. I love JR though and being able to camp right at the break and watch the action. It's absolutely perfect! Lots of space and never gets too busy.