SE Monday

[C36]

Semi-Solid. Arrived for afternoon shift to hear about four different people saying, "I thought you went to CB today?" Work kept me in the city this morning. Chatter on the beach was the wind was bit up and down so rigged 4.5/92. Rain was so heavy it soaked through my old 10,000 mm jacket in about 10 minutes while I rigged. Semi-solid at first then the wind and swell both melted away as the wind shifted SSW. Saw a seal (first time at Centennial). Started out feeling like Centennial and then started to feel like Long Beach (shifty, gusty sideoff wind sans ground swell). Crowd thinned. Pulled out the 116 to milk the end of it. Wind started to fill in SE again at sunset but suit was off, gear was packed and gate nazi was nigh. Warmer than last Friday (both wind and water). Glad it didn't completely tank (BWD 1), but sorry it didn't let loose (WG GFS).

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[C36]

Powered and planing most of the time but there were a number of lulls but you could stay moving and pump back up to speed off a wave.

Sounds like my CB day. Got to the beach early and was first on the water, rigged 4.3/80L and though I'd be over powered. Was for the first reach then it dropped. Came in and waited for an hour for the wind to return. Ryan was out on a 5.0 and it looked like it had kicked in again so I went back out on the 4.3 but it wasn't enough. I kept thinking it was going to crank so didn't go in and rig up. Bad decision which kept me trying to stay up wind the entire time and not catching many waves. Waves were small for the most part anyways but caught a few nice ones and got in a few nice hits. Finally gave in and rigged my 5.2 but by that time even that wasn't enough. Was an off day for sure.

Check out da action at 1:24.

Great session for me today, out from 11:00 'till 3:00. Started out overpowered on the 6.5m but it settled down.

Drove north through the tunnel without even slowing down at 4:30.



Last session for two months for me

Hope the surgery goes well and you have a fast and complete recovery!

[AdrienGrelon]

Glad you got something, Dave!

Not quite the day we were hoping for/expecting at CB, given how much talk there was about this forecast. I mean, Frankie posted, and that's usually the final straw on epicness coming in:



Went for a quick warmup/cool down session just after Michael went out (4.2m / 84l) and was well powered off the beach, and figured it was on, but things lulled off pretty quick and did my first of three walks of shame (under-powered, and couldn't get back to main lot slogging). Things turned back on for session 2 an hour and a bit later. First wave ended up being the WOTD for me: ~4 proper top to bottoms and nice speed to it, all the way down into Udderland.

At around 1pm, the jumping power 20mins turned on, and was feeling super dialed on a few ankle dry forwards. Mentally ready to try a double for the first time, but a big enough ramp never lined up unfortunately. Things got light shortly after, had to land downwind again (2nd walk of shame). Gave it one more shot on the 4.2m around 2:30pm, the 4.7m was not going to come out of the bag today, but it wasn't really worth it, and had to do one more walk. The last one was a bit frustrating.

Hopefully not the last session for 2018, but it's kind of looking that way. Loving the new board, and glad Skunktennial didn't fully skunk those in attendance there.

[Michael]

Check out da action at 1:24.

epic

[ShonanDB]

Check out da action at 1:24.

epic

Looked kind of like a "Bigfoot siting", but the footage was up close and not fuzzy!

Good thing you work for yourself M and hadn't called in sick for the day.

[Michael]

Check out da action at 1:24.

epic

Looked kind of like a "Bigfoot siting", but the footage was up close and not fuzzy!

Good thing you work for yourself M and hadn't called in sick for the day.

There were a few people avoiding the cameras!