by gabrielb » Tue Mar 01, 2016 5:48 pm
Pr delivered head high. Only way to get to those waves was hugging the jetty to the first break... and then 1shot to get this 2.5Meter+wall with the sweetest right , got 3 of them. 4th one did spit me out; by then switched to conserve energy, as duck diving these walls was not working, easy breast stroke works for me, awkward to see but let's me rest ( & be able paddle for 10 minutes straight if needed), got some more chest high waves later on.
George was like a 10 year old kid in a candy store. Ulu in the water got the jetty but later on.
Dave had a great time, it was a little rough. The key was to wait 1 hour for surf and wind to decrease by 3pm. We will get glassy sessions soon, you'll have fun then.
Last edited by
gabrielb on Tue Mar 01, 2016 11:18 pm, edited 4 times in total.